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Ashwin Sandhu
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    A good rule is to aim for a weekday in early winter, say mid January, when the crowds thin further. Arrive right after sunrise, then step back a few minutes about 10 to 15 so the last of the night shift visitors have cleared. If you’re staying nearby, the Taj Mahal, New Delhi is just over a kilometre away and offers a warm spot to rest before you head back.

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